When a boiler genuinely needs replacing, the equipment is the easy part. The near-boiler piping is what determines whether the new one runs efficiently for twenty years or gives you trouble from the first winter. That is where we spend the attention.
What Is Included
- Heat loss calculation for the actual house — most replacement boilers in this area are badly oversized
- Condensing or conventional recommendation based on your emitters, not on which has the bigger number on the box
- Near-boiler piping done to the manufacturer’s specification: primary/secondary where required, correct air and dirt separation, expansion tank on the correct side of the circulator
- Proper condensate neutralization and drainage on condensing units
- Outdoor reset control set up and actually commissioned, not just installed
- Full system purge, balance, and a walkthrough of how to run it
Condensing Is Not Automatically Better
A high-efficiency condensing boiler only reaches its rated efficiency when it runs at low return water temperatures. Feed one into old cast-iron radiators sized for 180°F water and you have bought efficiency you will never see. Whether condensing makes sense depends on your emitters and whether the system can be run at lower temperatures — which is exactly the conversation most quotes skip.
Sizing Down Is Usually Right
Boilers get replaced like-for-like off the old nameplate, and the old one was usually oversized to begin with — often for a house that has since been insulated and had its windows replaced. Running the heat loss calculation frequently points to a meaningfully smaller unit, which costs less to buy and runs longer, cleaner cycles.
Ask About Rebates
High-efficiency boilers can qualify for Focus on Energy incentives. We will check what your specific equipment and situation qualify for — more on rebates →
Service Area
We cover Green Bay, De Pere, Ashwaubenon, Howard, Suamico, Bellevue and Allouez, plus Brown County and eight surrounding counties across Northeast Wisconsin. See the full service area →
Why It Matters
A boiler is a twenty-plus year purchase, and the install quality is locked in on day one. Correct sizing, correct piping, and a commissioned outdoor reset are the difference between a system you forget about and one you call about every winter.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a boiler replacement take?
Usually one to two days depending on how much of the near-boiler piping has to be rebuilt and whether venting changes.
Can I keep my existing radiators?
Almost always, yes. Existing emitters are usually fine — they just need to be accounted for when selecting and setting up the new boiler.
Should I switch to forced air instead?
Rarely worth it purely for heating — the cost of adding ductwork to a house that never had it is substantial and you give up the comfort of hydronic heat. If the goal is adding air conditioning, mini-splits are usually the cheaper and less invasive path.
Prefer to talk? Call (920) 304-9377